Tranquil Gorkha

Tranquil Gorkha
Originally uploaded by Aishihik

Prior to last years election Gorkha was a major target for Maoists attacks. Civilians were under constant curfew while rebel forces fought in the surrounding mountainous jungle. Today, this beautiful place is at peace and the people look forward to renewed tourism.

Peaceful Bandipur

Funeral March
Originally uploaded by Aishihik

Rural Nepal is precious. Immediately life slows down and people take the time to greet “namaste” to each other. From our tiny balcony we watch the village people go about their daily lives including witnessing a family parade a deceased loved one through the streets while two men danced, trumpeters played, and children banged symbols and drums.

Beautiful Bhaktapur

Temple in Bhaktapur
Originally uploaded by Aishihik

Traffic free, culturally rich with master wood carvers and potters, cobblestone streets, ancient ways blend with modernization.

Is that billowing dense black smoke ahead?

Demonstration
Originally uploaded by Aishihik

The idea of hiring a rickshaw is fun so taking one to the central bus station seemed like a great idea. Our bicycle driver maneuvered through traffic with unbelievable ease. I would peer over the tire as we rattled along astonished we didn’t tangle up with any other motorist. We turned onto a major traffic artery and just ahead was a column of billowing dense black smoke. Motorized traffic ground to a halt. It became apparent very quickly a protest demonstration was underway and our driver decided to go right towards a mass of burning tires, military and a crowd of people. My inside voice screamed get me off of this thing and Nick took pictures exhaling WOW with each click of his camera. To my absolute amazement we drove through the middle without even a word of caution. Within minutes of leaving the demonstration area we arrived at the bus station.

Scavenging Monkeys

Scavenging Monkeys
Originally uploaded by Aishihik

The greatest and most impressive Buddhist temple in the Kathmandu valley is the Swayambhuath. It has withstood the test of time since the 13th century but I am truly at a loss to explain all the changes in just a ¼ century. It saddened me greatly en-route to the temple to walk through garbage laden streets, across a river whose sluggish waters are filled with gurgling black sludge and to see once beautiful monkeys scavenging through burning scrapes looking for food. The site itself, although holy, to me has lost its dignity.

Holy Man

Holy Man
Originally uploaded by Aishihik

This man worships Shiva, the cosmic dancer whose dance shook the cosmos and created the world. He lives at the Pashupatmath Temple.

Cremation

Cremation
Originally uploaded by Aishihik

The Pashupatmath Temple is situated along the very holy Bagmati River, which eventually empties into the Ganges in India. This sacred place is where the devout Hindu's are cremated. The wood is put in place, the shrouded body is placed on top and a fire is lit in the mouth of the deceased. The experience is overwhelming and powerful.

Ambassadors

Ambassadors
Originally uploaded by Aishihik

Phabhat, Hibu and Neeti are friends, recent graduates of high school and very inspiring. We met them in Dubar Square and ended up spending a few hours together. They were gracious hosts and true ambassadors of Nepal.

Infrastructure Woes – Hardship in Kathmandu

Katmandu
Originally uploaded by Aishihik

It is 24 years since our last visit to Nepal and the changes in Kathmandu are immense. It was a kingdom ruled by a monarchy and now after 12 years of internal struggle Nepal is governed by the Maoists. Streets that used to be filled with people riding bicycles ringing little handlebar bells, cows meandering and farmers trekking in fresh produce from the valley is replaced with streets that are crowded beyond capacity with people in cars honking relentlessly, rickshaws and motorcycles. Air contaminants coat our bodies with black dust and the noise is continuous. The traffic lights don’t work and pedestrians try to walk amongst the vehicles – often only centimeters from the front tires. Vendors are selling fresh produce surrounded by giant piles of stinking rotting refuse. Compounding all of this is the limited power that is available. We are lucky to get 8 hours of energy per day. It was surreal walking in the streets the other evening with the city in darkness except for the dim glow of a few light bulbs powered by belching generators. From behind us chimed voices – Sir - sir – hashish sir – taxi- bracelet madam- biscuit – maybe tomorrow. The people recognize their struggle and dream for a better future.

Bhutan Scenic Tours

Bhutan Scenic Tours
Originally uploaded by Aishihik

I have been in correspondence with Tshering Dorji for the past 9 months and he is the owner of Bhutan Scenic Tours. His attention to detail, honesty, integrity and unbelievably knowledgeable and caring staff has melted our hearts. As said to us on our last evening – we arrived as guests and left as dear friends. I think for Tshering and I though our friendship started a long time ago – Good Karma. If anyone reading this blog is interested in traveling to Bhutan please consider Bhutan Scenic Tours. Their website address is: www.bhutanscenictours.com and their email is: chodex@druknet.bt

Tiger's Nest Monastery

Tiger's Nest
Originally uploaded by Aishihik

We are back in Paro and our incredible journey is almost over. This evening we are treated to a hot stone bath and then tomorrow we hike up to the Tigers Nest monastery. It is one of the most spiritual heritage sites perched on a rock cliff 900 meters above the valley floor. It is stunning!

Archery

Archery
Originally uploaded by Aishihik

Punaka is warm, quiet and a little bit urban. We stayed in a wonderful locally owned hotel that had fabulous views and very few guests. Just how spoiled can we get! We watched archery, toured the most beautiful Dzong and hiked to the Divine Madman’s fertility temple.

Kira Girls

Kira Girls
Originally uploaded by Aishihik

Every day we say how on earth can this day top the last. Nimshong has around 465 residents with almost 58 households. Young entrepreneurial girls came up to the campsite with cloth they wove for kira’s. Both Paula and I could not resist. When we asked how on earth does a girl put this thing on – we had a swarm of volunteers. Dressed in our kiras we danced with the locals around our campfire late into the evening. Once again invited to a locals house we danced and sang down the hillside into the village with torches for light.

Blessing by Fire

Blessing by Fire
Originally uploaded by Aishihik

We are gathered in temple courtyard this evening with the whole village of Nabji and ¾ of the village of Korphu. The moon is full and shines upon us during the opening ceremonies. Young men dance wildly around the campfire blessing the ground and villagers anxiously await the blessing by fire that marks the end of the evening and the beginning of everyone visiting everyone’s house all night long. A huge archway made of poles and branches is set on fire. People excitedly line up with babies and children in hand to run as many times through as possible before the structure collapses in flames. The more times one can make it through the more blessed you are. I have to say – we only went through once!!!!

Korphu

Korphu
Originally uploaded by Aishihik

After a very steep climb we reached the enchanting village of Korphu. Hypnotized by the sound of monks chanting along with the drone of horns and thumping drums – we stopped. A young man, who was friends of Namga, invited us into his home. As the blessing continued, with genuine honesty, integrity and concern, our hosts proudly made us feel welcome. This experience affected me to the very core of my being.

Prayer Flag

Prayer Flag
Originally uploaded by Aishihik

As described in the Lonely Planet travel guide prayer flags are ubiquitous in Bhutan. They come in five colors symbolizing the elements of water, wood, fire, earth and iron. Even though flags are found on mountain passes, rooftops, courtyards, the most traditional Bhutanese prayer flags are mounted on vertical poles. They all serve the same basic purpose to invoke the blessings and protection from the deities for conscious beings, living or dead.

Nabji

Nabji
Originally uploaded by Aishihik

For most of the day we descended down the side of the mountain, passing waterfalls, oak forests and endangered languor monkeys until through an opening, tucked in the valley, we caught a glimpse of the ancient village of Nabji. Virtually unchanged for the last 1200 years. Rice fields tumbled down from the village and the local temple with two large grandparent cypress trees beckoned us to continue. This is a tranquil and inviting place. People soon realized we had arrived and started inviting us in for oranges and local moonshine that was served hot with egg in it. As the village started preparing for festival we celebrated our friendship with Namga, Pinso and Wangchuck singing and dancing around our campfire. PURE MAGIC…………..

The Phallus

The Phallus
Originally uploaded by Aishihik

At first it seemed comical to see so many wonderfully painted and decorated phallus’s on peoples homes. But to the Bhutanese it is a symbol associated with the Lama Drukpa Kunley, also known as the divine madman, and believed to ward off evil. The Phallus is one of many designs painted on the wooden surfaces of peoples homes which has significance in the Bhutanese belief system.

Kudra en-route to Nabji

Monpas Mom
Originally uploaded by Aishihik

The Nabji trail, which opened in 2006, is inside the Singye Wangchuck National Park. Hikes into this area and its remote communities is a tourism economic initiative to bring employment benefits to local guides, community owned campgrounds and cultural activities hosted by the local people. This idea is a pilot project and if successful may be brought into other areas to enhance some economic prosperity. One has to remember the people who live in this area still depend on a barter system to a certain degree and the agricultural land base on which they live. So far, they enjoy hosting a limited number of travelers into their homes and through the impressive forested mountains in which they live. Signs of tiger are on the trail, the endangered mountain Golden Langur monkey can be seen and the bird life is staggering. So far this trek is fabulous not to mention very good exercise!

Start of the Nabji Korpu Community Trek

Blessing
Originally uploaded by Aishihik

Today we cross the pristine Mangde River and hike mostly uphill to the Jangbi village. The people who live in this region are known as the Monpas and are believed to be the first inhabitants of Bhutan. When we reached the tiny village our local guide invited us into his home and served us fresh oranges from his trees and homemade moonshine. We all sat together in the presence of a visiting monk who was quietly preparing Torma – ritual cake. It is handmade petal-by-petal using a mixture of flour and butter that is dyed blue and pink. Once the monk completes the Torma alter; it is used inside the household shrine for upcoming auspicious days and the New Year. According to the Bhutanese calendar we are still in 2008.

Trongsa Tshechu

Festival
Originally uploaded by Aishihik

Held in the courtyard of the Trongsa Dzong, monks perform a series of dances in honour of Guru Rinpoche over several days. The men dress in their finest Gho’s and the women dress in their finest Kira’s. The Tshechu is a social event and attracts families from the surrounding district. One of the dances we witnessed is called the eight manifestations of Guru Rinpoche. The monks adorn themselves with ancient masks, colorful costumes and chant. It is said to be a form of meditation through movement. The experience totally absorbs ones whole being.

En-route to Trongsa

Hauling Goods
Originally uploaded by Aishihik

Trongsa is a 7-hour drive from Thimphu and is situated in central Bhutan. The road is a little wider than our vehicle and each bend only gives a glimpse to the next curve on the very steep mountainside road. After endless switchbacks, two snowy passes and feeling somewhat carsick we finally arrive to Trongsa. We give our gracious thanks to the stellar driving ability of Mongal who managed to get us everywhere with patience and safety.

Thimphu

Tranquil City
Originally uploaded by Aishihik

Established in 1961 Thimphu is the worlds only capital without a single traffic light. It is caught between two very distinct worlds of modernization and steeped cultural traditions. A simple glace towards a local evokes warmth, a big smile, bright sparkling eyes and immediate friendship. Our first night is spent in a hotel overlooking the city and there are only 6 of us – now how great is that!!!!

Paro Valley

Tiger's Nest
Originally uploaded by Aishihik

With each circle Druk Air spiraled slowly down inside the mountains into the Paro alley and finally landed on the airstrip. There are no instrument flight rules so the pilots have to fly by visual flight rules. As we approached for far as one could see was mountains, forests, rivers and beautiful houses precariously perched on the mountainsides. We left the aircraft into the cool crisp air as we entered the airport to meet our friends Tshering Dorji and his number one guide Namga. We have arrived!

Bangkok City Scape

Wacky City
Originally uploaded by Aishihik

Here is the view from our friend’s apartment on the 32nd floor. Although Bangkok is massive it is also a wonderful, safe, chaotic and diverse city. The locals know it as the city of angels.

Wat Arun

Wat Arun
Originally uploaded by Aishihik

Wat Arun is named after the Indian god of dawn, Aruna, and represents Mount Neru – the centre of the universe. There are four smaller towers around the wat, which symbolize the world’s oceans, and four pavilions that symbolize the wind from four directions. The entire temple is made from broken glass and ceramics, which was used as ballast on Chinese merchant vessels sailing to Thailand.

Bangkok New Years Eve

Happy New Year
Originally uploaded by Aishihik

New Years eve dinner was spent with our friends Gail and Serge dinning on a refurbished antique rice boat the Loya Nava and watching fireworks from one of the bridges that crosses the Chao Phya River – The River of Kings.

Bangkok

Bhudda
Originally uploaded by Aishihik

Lured by the sound of chanting monks over the clatter of busy city streets, we learned about giving. Monks depend upon the generosity of their people – over the next few days the temples brimmed with the devout giving food, money, care packages, robes and in return the people were blessed with good luck and to the beginning of the new year.

Buddhism, New Years, renewed friendship, rituals, kindness, generosity, Chao Phraya River, temples, fireworks, painful Thai massages, the lovely Phranakorn Nornlen sums up our first few days in Bangkok as we adjust to our new environment.