Tuesday, February 24, 2009
The Bacuit Archipelago has a spectacular karst landscape with coral, turquoise water and white sand beaches. Island hopping, snorkeling and lagoon exploring is supreme and the lunch of grilled fish on the beach with rice, cucumber salad and fruit for desert was well…YUM!
Back to Basics
Every day we give our host family money and they provide us with transportation, incredible meals cooked over a coconut fire, videoke by generator and a coconut bonfire. Nick and I chuckle; it only took us one day to settle into our hut, acquire a dog, and have14-year-old Adrian move in with us. INSTANT FAMILY!
Life on Darocaton Island
Thanks to Lolita, we are able to use her nippa hut and stay on Darocaton Island for 5 days. We lived alongside Dading, Naring and their grandson Adrian who are the caretakers of the beach. There is also a small traditional village. Life is simple and the climate is super hot. In the morning we clean the beach, do laundry, fill water buckets, snorkel and eat breakfast. Within hours the heat is so intense we are forced to stay inside our nippa hut until 3 or 4 in the afternoon. We long to be on the beach but it is not possible – alas we are prisoners of our own desire and fantasy.
Palawan's Dempster
With the groceries bought and the truck packed we are on the road by 6:00 AM to Dipnay. Dipnay is not marked on our road map but we are assured that once we get to El Nido we will have no problem finding the place by asking the locals. The gravel road to the north of Palawan reminded us of the Dempster highway. We drove over sharp stones, a myriad of potholes and ultimately had a flat tire. Sure enough after 11 hours we found our destination.
Sunday, February 22, 2009
Malaria protects indigenous people and the environment
Mount Maruyog is the tallest mountain on Palawan Island and is home to a very primitive tribe of indigenous people. They depend on the jungle for their survival and cultural independence. We were told malaria is currently protecting the forest and the people from logging, mining and development. Apparently there is a very deadly form of the disease in which the parasite attacks the brain. Even though rare, people cannot survive and die a retched death within days. Other malaria the indigenous people are resistant to is so prevalent it is impossible for foreigners to enter the area without getting very sick.
Beautiful Gardens
Brooks Point turned out to be a great spot to spend a few days. This time resort did mean resort – we had deluxe digs with air conditioning, a fabulous garden, pool, fantasy playground and a magnificent view of Mount Maruyog. All for twenty-five dollars! Dinner was pre-ordered, made from scratch and served on a tiered balcony. Now, this is a honeymoon paradise!
Who is that trip trapping over my bridge?
Believe it or not we decided to stay another night at our honeymoon paradise. Despite the accommodation being sub standard the food was excellent, the staff very sweet and we had the opportunity to travel upriver with an elderly man who lived with his family under a bridge. The tricky part was finding him, but sure enough in a tiny hut snuggly built under and attached to the bridge, we found our boatman. It was a real treat to travel upriver to beautiful waterfalls and then back down and all the way out to the sea.
Quezon Resort
After popping a few malaria pills we jump into our rented truck and head South. First stop, Quezon. Our LP guide directs to a “resort” that is supposed to be a notch above other rental accommodations in the area. We are the only guests, the cottage has bedbugs, and the beach is currently filled in with monsoon mud. Oh yeah, there are anacondas, cobras, malaria and the dengue. A young man directs us to our beach hut and casually says with a big bright smile: “Yes miss, sometimes there is malaria and people get sick, sometimes people get bit by cobras and people die – this is a honeymoon paradise!
Hello PP
Yippee – Yahoo - Puerto in so many ways is how we remembered it from 2000. This time though, we have the privilege of staying at Lolita and Bob’s house in San Jose with her brother Danny and his family. They are the most gracious hosts. We are spoiled beyond our dreams with their superior generosity and kindness.
Sunday, February 08, 2009
Chitwin National Park
I cannot tell you why I have always wanted to ride an elephant – but I can say it is the absolute best way to explore the jungle. These giant marvels walk ever so quietly, carefully padding in silence through the bush. Our last stop in Nepal was Chitwin National Park. It is a Unesco World Heritage Site and covers an area of 932 square KM. It is home to the endangered one horned rhino, royal Bengal tiger, marsh mugger crocodile and the charial. It has been a park since 1973 and before the war endangered populations were actually increasing. Sadly since the Maoist rebellion poachers have reduced the numbers of rhinos and tigers dramatically to sell on the black market. We heard locals speak of the army killing these animals for money to support their cause. It is questionable if any of these species can survive. To my horror, reported in the paper on our day of departure was a graphic photo of a rhino that had its horn hacked off its face. This animal was trying to relieve its pain by submersing its head in the river. Authorities are going to try and save it but the chances are very slim. Struggle for political stability, social justice, humane living standards and proper infrastructure is monumental. Peace is fragile. I don’t know what the future holds for Nepal but I do have hope……..
Tansen Nepal
Perched high up on the mountainside this pretty little town and the surrounding area is loaded with charm and beauty. We hiked a hilltop ridge for 13 kilometers through traditional villages that were connected by trails, which eventually took us back to the highway.
Pokhara Nepal
Like Kathmandu, Pokhara is much larger and more chaotic than it was the first time we visited 24 years ago. Poking our way through streets filled with souvenir shops, restaurants and hotels. Our memory is blurred. Finding familiarity along the lakeshore we hiked south to the dam and crossed over to the other side following a trail through villages, rice fields and eventually up the mountainside to the Peace Pagoda. The view of the Himalayas and the valleys from here is staggering!















