Sunday, February 19, 2012

Mapuche Gaucho

This young cowboy is Mapuche. He was in a hurry as he encouraged his horse to move faster. His image backlit in the afternoon sun was commanding.

Monkey Puzzle Tree

Officially known as the araucaria araucaria the common name monkey puzzle tree derives from England when a person remarked how it would puzzle a monkey to climb such a tree. This tree is native to Argentina and is sacred to the Mapuche and Pehuenche people. The monkey puzzle tree grows only 1 to 2 cm per year, can reach heights of 40 meters and can live for up to 1,500 years. The pine nuts are a very important food to the indigenous people of this area. It was an awesome sight to see them growing in their natural habitat.

El Bolche De

We stop the car, get out for a nice long stretch and take int he surrounding landscape. Nick asks me "do you think anyone live in that building?" "No, I don't think so, it seems abandoned to me" I say. Seconds later a man appears in the door............

Patagonian Desert

The desert is one of the most sparsely populated regions on earth. Covering and area of 270,000 square miles more than 95% is privately owned to raise seep, cattle and goats. The steppe grass glows golden in the afternoon sun.

Museo Mineralogico - Dr. Juan Olsacher

This incredible museum is free and contains over 2,000 types of mineral from all over the world. It also has the best collection of marine reptile and fauna fossils in Argentina.

Simple Homes / Alternate Energy

Some of the homes are very basic and others ranches known as estancias are quite elaborate. Gaucho's (cowboys) in this area tend to cattle, sheep and goats over vast areas. Although most dwellings are very simple and isolated they are usually equipped with solar and/or wind power.

Monk Parakeets

Roadside distraction, agricultural pest, or a delightful sight. The monk parakeet is highly intelligent, sociable and noisy!

Roadside Shrine

As we drove through south along ruta 40 we noticed shrines numerous shrine along the highway. The ones with red flags are dedicated to the memory of Gaucho Gil. He is revered throughout Argentina and is a folklore Saint. Gaucho apparently stole from the rich and gave to the poor. Eventually he was captured for deserting the military and sentenced to death. Upon his execution he warned the executioner his son would be stricken with a serious deadly illness if he killed him and the only way to save his son would be by honoring Gil's body with a proper burial. The significance of the flag is said to be unknown but some suspect it may have something to do with Gaucho's political party or the symbol of his blood when he was executed.

Endless Desert

It is super hot, everything from the sun to the succulent plants are prickly. It is vast and beautiful - I wonder - how on earth do people live here.

Rio Atuel

Even though there are four hydro electric dams on the Rio Atuel, there is enough water flowing in the lower reaches for whitewater rafting over short distances and a chance to do a little bird watching.

 

Canyon Colors

Canon de Atuel is a massive gorge that lies between El Nihuil and Valle Grande. Although the road is roughly 35 kilometers long it takes us three hours to drive. The colors, rock formations and changing landscape is spectacular.

Apple Orchard

After a very relaxing stay in Mendoza, we rent a car and head south towards Tupungato. We find a private campsite where we can pitch our tent in their pear and apple orchard and can pick as much as we want. DELICIOUS!!

Wine Chemistry

Grapes have grown in this area for over 500 years to produce wine. First by the Jesuits and now by over 300 wineries in the region. Overall the quality is improving as techniques are refined and the old criollo vines are replaced by malbec, cabernet sauvignon, merlot and syrah vines.

Cabernet Sauvignon

The district of Mendoza is famous for its delicious wines. It seems hard to believe that there are so many bodegas or vineyards that occupy land that was once desert. But, through elaborate river fed aqueducts, the people have made the area rich with orchids, olives and grapes. Yes, the wine is fantastic!

Jardin Zoologico

WE have visited zoo's in other large cities and have found that over the years the management of zoos have evolved into amazing research and education centers. So, we decide to see what Jardin Zoologico has to offer as it is close to where we are staying. OH MY GOD!!!!! For us, a complete and utter disappointment. I really don't know what to say - maybe this picture of a Canadian grizzly bear begging for apples speaks for itself.

Saturday, February 18, 2012

Malvinas Islands/Falkland Islands

It is early evening on February 7th and we are in front of the parliament buildings alongside protestors, tv crews and politicians who have been convened for a special meeting to discuss the rising tension over the Malvinas Islands with the increased UK military presence in the area. We later learn that on February 12th, as reported by various news outlets that President Cristina Fernandez de Kirchner has accepted an offer for the United Nations to help mediate a pacific solution with the United Kingdom over the sovereignty of the Malvinas Islands.

La Boca

We walked to the La Boca district from the Plaza de Mayo looking for the El Caminito district and the famous Boca soccer stadium. The stadium we found - missed El Caminito. We ended up a few blocks over in the slums of La Boca. There is nothing touristy here - shanties in complete disrepair, graffiti inscribed on every possible surface, half naked children playing in wading pools, clothes lines with laundry draping off the balconies and men smoking and talking in groups along the street with policia on every street corner. It may not have been what we imagined, but is a true reflection of an impoverished neighborhood in Buenos Aries.

Cementario De La Recoleta

The cemetery is built in the gardens of the original monk convent of the order of Recoletos in 1822. As described through Wikipedia "the 14 acre cemetery contains 4,691 vaults, all above ground. The cemetery contains elaborate marble mausoleums decorated with statues. While some are in excellent condition others have fallen to disrepair with broken glass and littered with rubbish." The graves contain Argentinas most notable people who were presidents, academics, poets and artists, politicians and military officers. It is a jaw dropping display honoring Argentinas elite!

City of 13 Million

Buenos Aries is a world city, giant in size and complex. One of the things that really stands out for us is the giant wetland and park on the cities waterfront. The ocean is accessible to the public and in the background are giant skyscrapers and financial buildings.

Reflections of us...

Buenos Aries has beautiful green spaces, parks filled with trees, statues, water fountains and young lovers. This magnificent statue inspired both of us when we saw it as it seemed to speak to the love and life journey we both share.

Buenos Aries - Red Hot

It's 10:00 PM and we decide to head out for empanada's at a local club not far from our guest house. It is dark, long and narrow, full of people eating and drinking wine. As we enter the doorway we are asked if we have a reservation. No, we both respond. The room seems impossibly full and just as we turn to leave the young woman who greeted us takes us to a wee tiny table by the stage. It is hot, sweat is pouring off everyones body and the musicians begin to play with a fervor. There are eight people playing instruments and or singing. People are clapping and swaying their bodies in time to the beat - no one can sit still - this latino band is RED HOT!

Thursday, February 02, 2012

Boquete, Panama

Here is another place going through great change now that the Americans and Canadians have found a climate that is not too hot or too cold in a magnificent cloud forest setting. Land is for sale everywhere, condos are going up, the cost of living is steadily increasing and the double lane highway to David is under massive construction. But, as always the charm and the history floats to the surface through its people and the colorful markets.

Franks Place

Frank has carved out a spectacular sanctuary along the Rio Encantado where he lives, rents out beautiful cabins and allows the odd camper. It is here that we set up our tent, bath in the river, meet new friends and relax in a beautiful paradise.

Beach Break

One hour - hot - sun bathers - birds - policia - fisherman - boats - ONE FISH - time to go.






 

Nick, what is that sound?

Perched on the ancient 5 million year old volcanic ridge overlooking El Valle on one side and the Pacific Ocean way in the distance on the other, my head turns to a sound that I cannot quite determine. "Nick" I say, "what is that sound?" Within a few seconds a dark buzzing cloud - so loud - so massive - flowing just over the landscape - begins its passage over our heads. I kneel down closer to the mountain ridge and Nick remains absolutely motionless. The moment passes, it is quiet once again.  Unsure of what we exactly witnessed we ask a local bird specialist what he thought. KILLER BEES migrating through he says. "You are very luck a straggler at the back of the swarm did not circle back! You could have been attacked."

El Valle de Anton

As usual there is not a cloud in the sky and a gentle breeze washes over the landscape.  La India Dorrida, a natural mountain formation in the shape of a sleeping princess stretches along the horizon. El Valle is a very special place. It is the second largest continually inhabited volcanic crater in the world. The climate is cool, the valley walls are steep and the diversity of bird species and orchids endemic only to this are are magnificent. There is even a species of tree that is square!  The people who live here, originate from this place, are kind, gentle, and a little shy. This local person, unnoticed in background of the market, plays on his fiddle that is entirely homemade including the bow and the simple strings that produce an awkward, but suitable sound.