A day in the life of Khayelitsha

The first time we laid eyes on Khayelitsha, just outside of Cape Town, we were in complete shock. A slum city, estimated to be 1.5 million, on the doorstep of the most beautiful city in South Africa. On the surface all we could see was rubbish and tin shacks precariously built side by each in an endless sea of clutter. Throughout our trip in South Africa we were acutely aware of the very complex racial and political challenges of this country. But seeing this slum from the side of a major highway only raised our curiosity. So, we did our research and found Jenny Housdon of Nomvuyo's tours. Jenny is a white woman with an extraordinary relationship with the people she loves in the township of Khayelitsha. Through her we visited peoples home, were invited into a mosque, met many wonderful people of all ages and experienced a culture we would have otherwise missed.

For more information about this township please visit her website at http://www.nomvuyos-tours.co.za/index.shtml

Here is a selection of photos from our day in the life of Khayelitsha - enjoy.

 

 

 

Cape Good Hope

Spectacular coastal scenery, historic and geographical importance, immense biodiversity - this is a precious and beautiful place on earth.

African Penguin

The African penguin is the only species that breeds in Africa. It is also severely endangered and has declined by 95% since 1910. Although statistically the numbers are grave this particular colony is protected and is slowly increasing in numbers.

You Can Pick-EM!

Rust en Vrede is a wine estate among the vineyards of Stellenbosch. This estate has produced wine for 315 years. In the last 32 years the focus has been on Shiraz, Cabernet and Merlot. Their original wine cellar is now converted into a world class restaurant. In fact one of the top 50 in the world. Believe me, it was only happen chance that we ended up here but am I ever glad we did.

I Think I Can

The hike to the top of Table Mountain via Plattekip Gorge is very popular and is the same route as the first recorded ascent in 1503. Although considered easy, I found the climb a little tough in the hot sun with very little shade. The view of Cape Town from the top is fantastic and the ride down by cable car quick. The car rotates and provides a 360 panoramic view of the city and Table Mountain.

Where Two Oceans Meet - Cape Agulhas

The official dividing point between the Indian Ocean and the Atlantic Ocean and the most southern tip of Africa is at Cape Agulhas. The sea off of this cape is notorious for winter storms and mammoth rogue waves which can reach up to 30 meters high. Many ships have succumbed to waves here. Standing on the ragged beach it is an amazing feeling to know all of africa is to ones back and the next point of land in Antarctica is a mere five thousand kilometers away. WOW......

Elephant Forest - Minus the Elephant

The Diepwalle forest used to be home to herds of 500 to 600 elephants. It is now thought that only 1 to 3 elephants remain - maybe none. The hiking in this area is super and there is the opportunity to see magnificent 600 year old yellow wood trees.

Garden Route

The Garden Route is a very popular in South Africa. Although beautiful it seems very commercial and in some ways not as relaxed as in other areas we visited in this country. The coast is still very captivating though with its rugged cliffs and frothing seas.

 

Lawn Bowling - Really?

Strolling down the one and only road through Hogs Back I notice a sign that says "Lawn Bowling - 2:00 PM to 4:30 PM - Everyone Welcome". Let's check it out I say! Before you can say "BOWLS" Nick and I are invited to play and end up playing our very first lawn bowling match on teams against one another. Great Fun - by the way - his team won!

Nick and Nancy

As you can read from our blog and see from our faces our journey over the past number of months has been very inspirational and incredibly fulfilling.

Coelacanth

Housed in a very special case and exhibited in the East London Museum is the first ever documented Coelacanth. As described on the following website www.eastlondon.org.za/coelcanth.html here is the first written description by Marjorie Courtney Latimer on December 22, 1938."I picked away at the layers of slime to reveal the most beautiful fish I had ever seen......it was five foot long, a pale mauvy blue with faint flecks of whitish, spots; it had an iridescent silver-blue-sheen all over. It was covered in hard scales, and it had four limb like fins and a strange puppy dog tail".

STOP THE CAR!

Cresting the top of a hill we see a large group of Xhosa people dressed in maroon parading right down the middle of the tarred road. Everyone is singing and some are throwing green branches down as they walk. Nick stops the car and as the group passes they acknowledge us with smiles, hand gestures and our very own greenery handed through our car window. We think this group of people may belong to the Zion church. Different colors symbolize different things. Maroon is for members who help with church activities.

Mule Variations

This photo reminds me of an album cover that I just can't recall. Any ideas?

Drum Beat

Coffee Bay, a tiny wee village back dropped by rolling hills and massive cliffs, is home to the Xhosa people. We arrive late in the evening and get a basic, and I mean basic, room at the Bomvu Paradise. Tired from driving all day we head to the dimly lit bar to get ourselves a drink. On one side of the room is a variety of hand made drums and percussion instruments. Three young men stride in and settle themselves behind the drums and start beating out a rhythm. Everyone in the room is captivated by the beat and soon the dance floor is filled.

Umtamvuna Nature Reserve

This gem of a reserve contains some of South Africa's most rare and endangered tree and plant species that are endemic only to this area. It also is home to the rare Cape Vulture. We hiked through the grasslands and down into the Umtamvuna River gorge which is amazingly steep. Fantastic hiking in this region - fun fun fun!

Dr. Dolittle's Farm

Following yet another dirt lane in search of a campsite close to the Umtamvuna Nature Reserve we come across a hand painted sign indicating camping at a farm close by. The gate is locked but I notice people in the farm yard and start to wave and call out to make our presence known. A woman lets us in and we ask her if we can camp on the property. She contacts the owners; a vet and his wife who works for animal protection. They say sure as long as we don't mind Buster the mastiff protecting us from the other 19 dogs, the geese, ponies, a pig, a persistent cat, guinea fowl and a host of other wonderful creatures. No problem we say immediately we are upgraded to a small cabin. We end up staying for a few days and could not help but think we were living at Dr. Dolittle's Farm!

Sugar Cane Farm

One of our favourite guest house stays was with Jane and Jonathan Chennell. The farm has been in the family for almost 100 years and the surrounding landscape is beautiful. They are both fantastic ambassadors of Eshowe and introduced us to the many treasures of their village including the very special Dlinza forest and the fantastic cultural museum.

Beading

This woman along with her two sister-in laws bead in a tiny Zulu hut with the hope of bringing in a little extra income from people like us who visit their home.

 

 

Dream the Possibilites

Nick and I visited an orphanage in a small Zulu village just outside of Eschowe. In front of one of the buildings I notice a group of boys huddled around a broken down bike. The teenager in the white shirt was trying to fix it with with very few tools and limited resources. I asked him about his bike and he smiled shyly and spoke quietly of his passion. He made me smile and I shared with him about our son Joey who makes his living through his bike passion. He looks at me with disbelief and a sparkle in his eye - maybe, just maybe, he can dream of the possibilities.

Surf Fisher

Losing both of his parents by the time he was seven to HIV Aids this young man's journey to adulthood has been very challenging. He supports himself by angling and selling his fresh fish product. Due to this coastline being protected no net fishing is allowed.

Kwa Zulu-Natal Elephant Coast

Remote, pristine and culturally rich we were immediately drawn to make our way up to the Elephant Coast and visit Sodwana Bay. The coastline along the Indian Ocean is vast, the waters tepid and bay is host to the southern most coral reefs.

Please Don't Eat My Garbage

We ran out of ice for our cooler and the intense heat quickly soured our food. With guilt I threw away some leftover chicken. The next morning a woman comes by our campsite to empty our garbage can - she leaves. We met shortly thereafter in the washroom and she approaches me with the chicken I had thrown away and in poor english asks why I did not like it. With my eyes wide I try to explain the meat may be bad and could make her very sick. She tells me she is very hungry, says sorry and sits down on the floor with her bowl and eats.

Baobob

This fantastic tree is only reported to grow in the Musina area of South Africa. Some are reported to be over 1,000 years old and they look like they are growing upside down. they have unbelievably massive trunks with thick branches shooting out the top that kinda look like they should be the roots. There is supposed to be a baobob reserve but we found that most of the trees, which grow sporadically, were inside fenced reserves that are private. So, we took the photo through the fences - say la vie......

Border Crossing

We are the only car for hours on a very dusty gravel road when we finally come to the Platjan border crossing sign. It is a tiny nondescript place and the process was entirely stress-free. After letting ourselves through the gate we drive towards the Limpopo river which divides Botswana from South Africa and cross using a cement causeway that is so narrow it barely seems wide enough for our car. Once across we went through South African customs and immigration in no time flat. The experience reminded me of what traveling between countries was like before 911.

You Have to be Kidding

We follow a dirt road and it eventually comes to a very large dry river. We take a second look and find there is car stuck in the deep sand right in the middle. HELP! they call out - so, we push not just one car but two to the other side of the dry river bed. Ok they say now it's your turn - Nick and I look at each other chuckling and shake our heads back and forth saying no way in unison.

Help! We Are Lost!

With only a tourist map of Botswana, we decide to travel to the Tuli Nature Reserve in the far eastern corner of the country. It is remote, sparsely populated and wild. According to our map it appears that camping in the area should not be too hard to find.

As the day progresses the road in places becomes almost impassable with our rental car. Slowly we make our way to a crossroad in the bush - there are three signs. To the right Molema Bush Camp, straight ahead Lentswelemoriti and to the left Tuli Safari Lodge. After trying all three directions we find out we missed the correct turnoff and need to backtrack. It is dark, we are tired, and thoughts of sleeping in the car are creeping into our thoughts. Determined, Nick backtracks until we find the right turnoff to Molema and once again we head down a dirt path. We pull up to a very small building and a man comes out. Can we camp here we ask. Yes let me show you campsite number four. Using the headlights of our vehicles we set up the tent, get a fire going, and slowly start to relax. We are the only visitors, there are no fences, we are told elephants and rhinos walk by en-route to the Limpopo River to drink water and if we hear anything just stay quiet and calm.......we wake up to find we are in the most beautiful campsite you could ever imagine.

Serowe Botswana

Being so close to the border of Botswana we decided to travel to Serowe. Super friendly people and the local museum is a real gem - we learned about the culture, the political struggles, and the amazing story of Sir Sereste Khama; the first President of Botswana who married a white woman by the name Ruth Williams from the UK at a time when inter racial marriage was not acceptable. Their love story and life journey is fantastic. Since then, former president Festus Mogoa and the current president Ian Khamatwo and the famous author Bessie Head have all come from this community. Very impressive indeed!

Rhinos, Giraffes, Lions And The Watering Hole

For three days we inhaled the bush-veld, soaked in the sunrise and sunset game drives, and cherished every moment we were able to experience the African wildlife. See for yourself and enjoy these photos!

Mosetlha Bush Camp

As described in Mosetlha's bush camp booklet "named for the tree around which the lodge is built, the camp is family owned and run by Chris, June and Caroline Lucas, it is unfenced, rustic, intimate and offers a genuine wilderness experience...........the simplicity of comfortable beds in raised wooden cabins, oil lamps, safari showers and delicious bush fare prepared on the open fire offers the perfect mix of home comforts and the African bushveld." Carline is a warm and gracious host, Jonny is a wise and reserved guide and the experience was far more than I could have ever anticipated. AFRICA! AWESOME AFRICA.

Let's Make The Best of It.......

Not far from where we are staying, in the San Talmo district, are wonderful restaurants and night clubs. So, we decide to celebrate with dinner on a balcony overlooking a city park where musicians are playing jazz - the sound wafts up. After dinner we find a club and find a couple dancing tango accompanied by one piano and accordion player. The dance is seductive, steamy, athletic and sooooooooooo beautiful to watch.

Yellow Fever Certificate Espanol

The directions to the clinic are vague, we arrive around 10:00 AM, the waiting area is dimly lit, hot and every seat is taken. We give our passports to security police who tell us to wait until our names are called. In a surprisingly short period of time a man in a white smock directs Nick and I into a very tiny room. In spanish he directs our attention to a note posted in english that states not to take any aspirin to relieve symptoms from the vaccine - before we can think to ask any questions about symptoms and precautions the needle is given and we are given our yellow fever certificates in espanol. Here's hoping all goes well!